Back to Town

breakfast

katie's email prompted us to ask several
times and in several ways
is the road good? will we be delayed?
"no, I just came back, it'll be great"

pack up
drive out of town

puma rescue center
rescue animals and try to (three rs)

pumas
parrots
monkeys

souvenirs
lunch
peanut butter
bread
strawberry jam
caramel
pineapple jam
cheese
crackers
water
on the tables

drive back
stopped for ripe mangos
and pineapples
ate one
kept one

windy mountain road
full of trucks
stuck by the bridge for 1:15

in san jose late
nice hotel
pool

kids jump in
cold
kids get out quickly

eat dinner
american style restaurant
return the cars
no new dents
no new dings
everything checks out
I hope

back to the hotel in a taxi
the long way
(cause we're dumb tourists, I guess)
it probably cost an extra $1

pack
prepare
sleep

Rain Day

breakfast
suspension hike

diapers

dinner
tilapias angel
you choose the fish
they fry the fish
very fun

Lazy Day

breakfast

dad's off on a tour
and his camera
lazy day

alex reads james and the giant peach
katherine reads 6 books
cuddled in moms room

in town for
money
fruit stand
lunch
pizza

katie & andrea leave
on the bus
normal fare for andrea

dinner
heliconias lodge

Trees

an alarm went off about 2 am
tried to get back to sleep
but it doesnt arrive
2.30
3.00
4.00
4.30
5.00
very very tired
drive to meet fred
breakfast
gallo pinto
huevos fritos
chocolate

very bumpy roads--used the 4x4
remote farm full of trees
trees trees trees
hiking to see the five groups of trees
later off for lunch
ceviche
drive to freds factory
factory tour
shelves
bookcases
doors
all very beautiful

meeting amy
another hike
along the ridge
native trees
down through the forest
to the river
and the swimming hole
to swim for an hour
until the rest of the family come
and want to try the waterfall jacuzzi
then a walk back
and a discussion

dinner on the road
to heliconias lodge
mom says give us something fast
soggy french fries
fried pork ribs
looked like bacon
tasted like bacon
sometimes nobody wins

6 km from the lodge
motorcycle rider assists foreigners
rides ahead into town
we've passed
he honks and points
and we take the rough mountain road
to heliconias lodge
in the rain forest

Busy Day

meet at 7:40
breakfast 7
zip-line

loralee
katie
erik
andrea
laramie

bad news

giovanni hunting in town
finally found someone who knew his uncle
who had his phone number

spa / hot springs
everybody
lounging around
drinking pina colada
monkeys
swimming

dinner in a decent pizzeria

giovanni
midnight frog tour
blue jeans frog

pack up bags
sleep

La Fortuna

hike down
pack
family photos
pack
beach 1 hour
travel

icecream
mango
coco
maracuya

drive
road closed
no signs
ack
missed the turn and asked directions
"Go 10 km, turn left after the gas station
you'll be on the highway you want to be"

missed the first road
took the second road
through san ramon
along a windy road
through the mountains
and one way bridges
to arrive in town
and make a wrong turn down the one way street
quickly corrected
because the hotel is back the way we came
up a road
almost half paved

green lagoon
! room
beautiful
unfinished--moulding
only 1 chair--needs 6
beds for 6
grout not cleaned out of shower
no place to stow luggage
no closet
no way to exit when locked--fire escapes?
no privacy
no curtains
exposed wiring / plumbing
no toilet paper holder
smells like varnish
lights not well explained
floor dirty when walking barefoot
no lamps
no wifi
incomplete landscaping
path incompletely lit
trail unfinished
not good for kids
not good for groups
good for 1 couple no kids / older kids / honeymooners
no safe
no fridge

dinner
partially delivered

rough night
loralee and rebecca
laramie and alex
katie and katherine
guess who slept the best?

but the beds were soft and new and wonderful
the best we slept on in costa rica

Jungle

surfing
overnight in the jungle
no ice cream
1.8km hike
roadside hawk

For the Birds

5.30
up and at em
dress the kids
mangrove bird hike / tour
first a bus
then a walk
dad looking at everything
toucan
sloths
nesting herons
army ants
mangroves--only 3 kinds
9.30
breakfast
the guide had to call ahead
we didnt want to miss it
even though we were late
people went their separate ways
naps
dominical
tree hunting
I did the washing
just like on the mission
in most ways except that I dont have to rush to get in line
and there are fewer white shirts
before loralee left to town
and the kids went into the pool
where we played canonball
and swimming under water
and I worked on backfloats
I don wanna backstroke
becca cried
and was tense
with her feet in the air
kicking
and her hands clutched
in a death grip
on her life vest
by the end of an hour
she had relaxed her hands
and straitened her legs a little
and let her head sit in the water
(I don wanna get my hair wet)
on the second potty run
we stayed out as people started
to arrive back
with some fixings for lunch
peanut butter
bread
jam
pringles
bananas
after breakfast the children quieted down for
naps
which never happened
except mine
but alex read
and katherine read
and rebecca climbed on me
while loralee napped
4.00
drive around the corner
to the river swimming hole
the water was cool
and a little green
nobody worried about crocodiles
until some friendly neighbor
mentioned the 3 sightings in the last week
and we decided that number 4
would not be one of us
back in the car
pool for the kids
hot potato
first laramie
then andrea
then erik and david
while we raced to the sunset
on the beach
halfway down
when we arrived on the sand
bodysurfing
until almost dark
the way home lit by firefly flickers
el coco restaurant
expecting dinner
alex was too tired
so the kids and laramie
travelled back early
for a quick dinner of
peanut-butter sandwiches
bananas
yep theyre all gone
milk
finally ice cream
everyone in bed quickly after that
and asleep
before the adults returned
as I washed one more load
then
the chocolate and mint ice cream
was devoured
we'll need more tomorrow

Hacienda Baru

up early enough
before breakfast
to walk on the beach again
then a discussion of plans
sent the family off
the rest of us
stayed for breakfast
fruit and toast
pineapple
banana
papaya
watermelon
played on the sand
played in the surf
the currents were strong
and the sun was hot
more play in the pool
as loralee packed
then I re-packed and loaded the car
to be left by 11
by really it was 11.40
detoured by a fruit tour
of pineapple
mango
cinnamon
lime
and other things, edible and not
growing in paradise

on the road to ronnys place
for a pineapple filled with
pina colada (virgin)
best drink of the trip
and lunch
ceviche
casados
seafood salads
fajitas
arroz con pollo
and a jug of berry juice
(for me, a glass of maracuya)
on the bluff
overlooking manuel antonia
watching birds soar on the currents
and visit trees
waiting for the goats to come by
playing for hours
since the new highway to playa dominical
makes a fast drive
once there
the attraction is obvious
as the kids settle in
to the pool
and dad sets up the camera
in the road
to take photos until
nightfall
a little hot
no airconditioning
but wonderful

we didnt get the news
erik and brittany
got bumped for $800
and would be a little late
after driving around the carnival traffic
on the backroads
until much later
and so dinner waited until they got back
just after I bought bread and jam
in town
and was followed home
by the policia touristica
who saw me dim my brights
and thought that I needed help
it was fish
loralees was best

The Crew Arrives

up early for once
6.30
walk on the beach
the sand is the color of mud
and soft
the sun is low
shining over my shadow
I walk
a kilometer
and back
check on early breakfast
nope
the pool is being cleaned
wake the kids
and get them ready for the day
with sunscreen
spf 100 for our faces
a big bottle for the rest
and clothing
the shoes come last
katherine wants to try papaya
and it's for breakfast
along with
very cold sweet red watermelon
pina fresh cut with juice
running down their chins
the children eat seconds
and thirds
and if you look at alexanders plate
maybe fourteenths of watermelon
with bread and strawberry jam
or blackberry jelly
orange juice as well
sweetened with a little sugar
the first trip
of many back and forths
we went to see the crocodiles
lounging in the river
in the sun
along the bank
attracting tourists along the bridge
as cars and camiones
zoom past
too close for a mothers
comfort
when she watches her child
try to cross like the chicken
or the iguana roadkill
a bit too slowly
to show a real awareness of the situation
while she struggles with the others
that are clearly too young
the crocodiles, though are cool
and the children count
one then three
then six and nine
twelve no thirteen
ending at twenty seven
or maybe only twenty three
either way it seems like a lot of
hungry hungry crocodiles
afterwards I keep my promise
and buy cups of icecream
chocolate for 400
and loralee a jugo de maracuya
passion fruit
which is my favorite
in the store by the roadside
and shop for hats
everyone needs a hat
pink with a bow
or brown
or tan with snaps
or multi colored with crochet frills
that unwind in the car
as we drive back to meet grandma and grandpa
(but we stop at the national park on the way
it's noon and maybe a little late to enter
since it's too hot)
they've arrived
and went for dinner
down the beach
I looked in the pelican
but they went the other way
and ate ceviche
we saw them when they came back
without grandpa
who went on a birding tour
back by the crocodiles
so all of us
ate bread and jam and tunafish sandwiches
and hurried to leave
except katie
who needs to sleep study swim
go back up the street
its about 40 km
to the park
and pick up dad
but not at the first entrance
but rather at the second
little exit
then the plan is a river boat bird tour
(more birds)
down the road 5 km and along a small beach town
to where the crocodile man lives
$30 per person
we load into the boat
mom
loralee
david
alex
katherine
rebecca
the camera
the tripod
laramie
and nearly leave
when we return for some Colombians
who join us
Dad goes crazy
with the camera
and the binoculars
it was really fun
and I'm sure that someday soon
I'll be able to list all the herons and other birds
we saw
along with the osprey and teal
but not today
I did see one bird that was easy to recognize
chicken
used by the barefoot
crazy lucas
to feed the huge crocodiles
standing barefoot
and slapping the water
until the predator sensed the meat
and like a circus trainer
the crocodile danced for his food
huge
1 ton
dancing crocodiles
when you pet them
they feel like
moss
several were fed
apparently the risk is worth the tip
another highlight
were the birds
we stopped and setup the tripod
to take one photo
or maybe one hundred
and tried to see the birds in trees
and along the bank
stably enough
in a rocking boat
to get a crisp shot
good luck with that
1/1000 of a second helps
so does IS
and back at the bank
we look for scarlet macaws
one block before the town
in the almond trees
but they arent there
se alquila los banos
and alex was dancing
I met a 7 year old girl mela
who gave me change
before we drove back to the cabins
I was tired and grouchy
and wanted dinner
grandma volunteered to feed the kids cereal
I was impatient
she stayed with the kids
who would rather swim than eat
we went out for our "date"
with katie & david
gazpacho
tuna
ceviche
soupa de mariscos
red snapper
mahi-mahi
cheesy bread
water
made the meal
in american dollars
not very cheap
but good
before coming back
talking about tomorrows plans
get up swim in ocean in pool breakfast checkout noon
then meet erik in dominical
lets see how it goes
copying photos
email
etc.
and a moment to talk politics by the pool
before I'm off to bed
early
not.

Paradise

we got up early
no we didn't
we got up late
we cleaned up
we ate breakfast
we climbed into the car
we drove to quepos
we parked
we shopped for a hat
we shopped for a shirt
we shopped for some flip flops
we bought lunch
casaderos for 1800
fried fish
rice
beans
pasta salad
an egg
pina batido
papaya batido
papaya-pina batido
oh, and chicken
made an ice cream promise
drove to alejandro national park
guides tried to get us to pay $120 for a short tour
we declined
parked
and paid $25
and walked
through the ocean
up to my knees (I carried rebecca)
to the back entrance
along the beach
it was high tide
the waves were crashing in
I asked others: how's the swimming
rough they replied
to cathedral point
we didn't see monkeys
we saw hermit crabs
we saw butterflies
we saw lizards
we saw a few ants with leaves
not a true mound of leafcutter ants
that cut the leaves off of entire trees
but just a few ants with leaves
and one "leaf-cutter" hermit crab in a green shell
and katherine found a snail
she had to find 3 for an ice cream
she found 5 different things
and we saw some little tailless rodent that moved fast
and on the way back
a sloth in the trees
is the water there potable?
we drove back
and stopped at a
drugeria?
que?
farmacia?
ah, si, a la izquierda, a la vuelta.
and there was a karate school
ai ai ai ai ai ai ai ai
along the sidewalk

the traffic drives alternatingly
fast and slow
we were usually slow
well, not always
it's hard to tell if the speed limit is 20 or 40 or 60 or 80
usually it's one of those
so if you may be near a school, and there are kids, drive slow
if you're in town drive slow
if you're in a long straight stretch, drive fast

we drove back towards home and stopped at
restaurante la 45
the menu looked cheaper than last nights
loralee likes seafood
she got the paella
I just got fish
poached in banana leaf
with citrus reduction
the kids got the house plate
rice
beans
salad
pasta
vegetables
fish
lemon
avacado
to share
they also shared my meal
poached fish
vegetables
potatos with mayonnaise
it was quite good
and loralees meal
paella
with squid and very small octopus
clams
mussels
shrimp
(I won)
(but loralee's mussels were the kids' favorite)
but mostly
everyone enjoyed the juice
guayabana
white, sweet, milky
blended with ice
loralee bought 2
and she never buys drinks

then home
swimming from 7.30 til 8
with dad
underwater
loralee talked to the people poolside
she practiced spanish
and learned how to say "wet"
after asking me about it all day
they didn't want to come out at 8
or 8.10
then becca tipped over
wearing her life vest
and another floatation
device
and at 8.35 that was the end of that
pajamas
to bed
slowly
like pulling teeth
finally
katherine and becca should be sharing a bed
I was snuggling with alex upstairs
and becca fell out of bed
landed on her mouth
it bled
and she cried
and so we are in bed early
nope
later, really

Red Eyes

we were on the plane
the plane took off
becca sat by the window
katherine sat by alex
katherine sat by dad
katherine sat in the middle
it was dark
it was hard to sleep
alex slept by the window
katherine slept on dad
dad didn't sleep much
rebecca woke up
dad carried her around
they looked for cookies
there were no cookies
not in the front of the plane
not in the back of the plane
but we walked to the front of the plane anyway
and we walked to the rear of the plane anyway
and we did that again
we did get some water, though
we landed in costa rica early
the airport wasn't ready
we had to sit on the plane 10 minutes
and wait for the airport
then we pulled up to our gate
we got off the plane
we went through immigration
we're tourists
we waited for our bags
we went through customs
we offered our illegal bag of cut apples
but they gave them back
there was a shuttle to the car rental
it was economy rent a car
we had to pay an additional $28/day for insurance
that was too much
that was not on our initial bill
not that economic after all
we waited for the car
it was a grey mitsubishi sport
it was a diesel
we checked the car
it has a lot of scratches
they didn't worry about the small dings
we loaded the car
everyone fit
even the luggage
and the stroller
and the kids
yep
everyone fit

I looked for an ATM
it's called cajero automatico
there wasn't one
the one in the airport was out of service
the foreign exchange booth was also down
I went to the hotel
the exchange rate was 497/$
they buy at 520/$

We got on the highway
good thing the directions were so clear
because we immediately knew that the
intersection was a mess
nice shuttle driver let me in
and we're off to the races
with a wrong turn into town here
driving down the street
that's not where we're going
turn around
past a bright blue school
and a park
and a church
back to the highway

the two things to know:
don't get off the highway unless
you know you want to
it ends
otherwise you will probably be in the wrong place
these highways go around towns
and the towns are all pretty small

another early exit
and turning back around we learn these lessons

After that, no problem
everything is measured in kilometers
they are like miles only a little shorter

We turned at the airstrip sign
Drove down a very rough road
the airstrip is a dirt patch
a little wider than most roads
and a little rougher
hope there are no planes

we arrived early
I slept in a hammock
everyone else swam in the pool
and went to the ocean
this is paradise
katherine says
we checked in to our cabin
loralee fell asleep
everyone else went to the ocean
alex fell in the surf
becca fell in the surf
we got a little sunburned
I fell asleep
loralee fed kids
brown apples
granola bars
melted chocolate granola bars
but they're still hungry
lets get out of here
loralee says
about 4 hours is our limit in paradise
we drove for groceries
the prices are pretty high
we bought
bread
milk
jam
juice
water. 3 liters
tuna
mayo
ok, enough for a snack if we need one
back to the cabins
swimming again
we ate dinner at the pelican
it was close
prices were higher than we expected
the food was good
katherine had the house plate
black beans
rice
fried fish
salad
alex had arroz con pollo
salad on the side
it reminded me of my mission
plus salad
becca shared
I had mahi-mahi
fish & vegetables
green beans
celery
carrots
broccoli
califlour
the vegetables were crunchy
the fish was salty
loralee won
she had ceviche
it was very good
a walk back
time to quiet the kids
and off to bed
except alex wanted to snuggle
and becca wouldn't sleep
so we cuddled
I fell asleep
I put alex in bed sometime in the middle of the night

Travel to Costa Rica

got on the airplane around 2 pm
we flew to denver
the plane had juice
the stewardesses served cookies
dad read some of his book
mom read more of her book
we got off the airplane at 6 pm
we left a book on the airplane
it was called james and the giant peach
we called great grandpa belmear
he picked us up in the van
grandma sat in the front seat
we double-buckeled the kids
aunt verna drove
we drove into the city (a little ways)
we went to the old country buffet
grandma had to ride the wheelchair
her knee was not well
it was a buffet
we ate dinner
there was ice cream
there was cookies
there was cake
there was brownie
there was frozen yogurt
there was soda
there was non-frozen slushies
there was fried chicken
there were rolls
there was salad
there was corn
there were peas
there was ham
there was turkey
there was sirloin steak
there was jello
there was fruit salad
there was cornbread
there was pasta
there was pizza
there were carrots
there was meatloaf
there was fried fish
there was mashed potatoes
there was pineapple
there was a taco bar, but no one went near it
katherine says that it was good
alex says yeah
we got back into the van
we rode back to the airport
we went through security again
dad didn't go through the scanner
he doesn't need more x-rays
the security guys were annoyed
he got a pat-down
waiting at the gate
the kids played with their accordian tubes
they jumped rope
they wiggled the snake
they pretended they had crowns
they aimed them like guns
they used them as belts
they invented a circle game
they had a lot of fun
we got on the plane again
it was midnight